The Legacy of Liu Bao Tea

Liu Bao tea, a traditional dark tea from Guangxi, China, has cemented its place in the cultural and historical fabric of Malaysia, particularly during the tin mining boom in the early 20th century. Known for its earthy, rich flavor and health benefits, Liu Bao tea was not only a comforting beverage but also a lifeline for Chinese miners working under harsh conditions. This article explores the deep connection between Liu Bao tea, Ipoh, and Southeast Asia, while emphasizing its cultural significance, health benefits, and the tea's lasting legacy in the region.

The Tea Ship Route: Liu Bao Tea in Southeast Asia

Liu Bao tea’s journey to Southeast Asia can be traced back to one of the earliest documented export records from 1951, in the publication China Tea News (中国茶讯), which stated that Liu Bao tea was transported by ships from Wuzhou to Guangzhou and then traded to Hong Kong, with a majority of them sold to Ipoh area in Southeast Asia.

Year 1951《中国茶讯》states：“旧时粤商在广西六堡乡合口街设庄收茶叶……再用电船装运广州，出口港、澳。六堡茶除在穗港销售一部分外，其余大部分分销南洋怡宝（怡保）及吉隆坡一带。”

The Ancient Tea Ship Route (茶船古道) allowed for easy transport of Liu Bao tea from Guangxi, where it was loaded onto ships at local ports, sent down the Hejiang River, and into the Xijiang River to Guangzhou. From there it extended into Southeast Asia via Hong Kong. This shipping route became known as the "Tea Ship Route" (茶船古道), which echoed the famous "Tea Horse Road" (茶马古道) used for transporting Pu-erh tea.

The Rise of Liu Bao Tea Among Nanyang Chinese

From the mid-18th century onward, the tea trade flourished as Chinese laborers, also known as "Nanyang migrants", carried Liu Bao tea to Malaysia. As Chinese laborers began settling in places like Malaysia and Ipoh, Liu Bao tea traveled with them, becoming an integral part of their daily life.

In addition to Malaysia, Liu Bao tea was widely consumed across Southeast Asia driven by the increasing Chinese population. Historical records show that by the 1920s, over 2 million Chinese laborers were living in Malaya, Indonesia and Thailand, many of whom were descendants of southern China. This population surge further boosted demand for Liu Bao tea, which was often distributed through Hong Kong’s extensive trade networks.

From the 1950s to the 1990s, Liu Bao tea exports from Hong Kong and then into Southeast Asia reached impressive volumes. It is estimated that annual exports of Liu Bao tea surpassed 1,000 tons, with a significant portion distributed in Malaysia, particularly Ipoh.

Liu Bao Tea in Malaysia: A Deep-Rooted Heritage

Among Southeast Asian destinations, Malaysia—and particularly Ipoh—holds a special place in the history of Liu Bao tea. During the 19th century, tens of thousands of Chinese laborers arrived in Peninsular Malaysia to work in tin mines. These laborers, most of whom were from the Cantonese-speaking regions of Guangdong and Guangxi, brought Liu Bao tea with them as a comforting reminder of their homeland.

By the early 20th century, Ipoh became one of the key hubs for Liu Bao tea consumption in Malaysia. The tea, with its soothing, earthy tones, became an integral part of daily life -- drank everyday at work and at home.

Liu Bao tea became particularly significant during the 1960s tin mining boom in Malaysia. With over a thousand tin mines across the country, Ipoh, the heart of Malaysia’s tin mining industry, saw half of these operations located within its vicinity.

Tin Mining and Liu Bao Tea

The local climate in Malaysia was hot and humid, and many miners, whether they were working deep in the mines or women panning for tin in the rivers, had to labor under intense heat, often standing knee-deep in water. This harsh environment led to frequent illnesses such as heatstroke, rheumatism, and dysentery. Under these conditions, the workers discovered that Liu Bao tea was ideal for expelling heat and humidity, improving digestion, and maintaining health. As a result, it quickly became popular in the mining communities.

Working under the scorching sun, drenched in sweat, it was easy to fall ill or suffer heatstroke. The miners found that drinking Liu Bao tea made working much more bearable. They even called it ‘life-saving tea’, believing that having this tea could keep them alive. Each day, miners would brew Liu Bao tea and store it in large stainless steel containers, sipping it throughout the day while working in the tin mines.

In Malaysia’s tin mines, which often had standing water, workers had to enter the water to work. The women who worked by the rivers panning for tin, known as the "Liulang Women" (琉琅女), would wash the tin particles out of the sediment.

Liu Bao tea became so essential to the miners that if a mine didn’t provide Liu Bao tea, they couldn’t attract workers. Tin mines provided both tea and food, and the cook in charge of preparing meals, known as a masak, would boil tea daily. Every morning, the masak would start a fire with firewood to boil a large pot of water to steep Liu Bao tea. The workers would then bring their containers to fill with tea before heading down into the mines. 

Ipoh: The Second Hometown of Liu Bao Tea

Malaysia’s tin mining industry greatly boosted the popularity of Liu Bao tea in Southeast Asia. From the late Qing Dynasty to the early years of World War II Liu Bao tea experienced a golden era of high demand according to the 1937 Guangxi Specialty Records《廣西特產志略》. Ipoh, once known as the World’s Tin Capital, became the second hometown of Liu Bao tea. The tin industry’s demand for this tea prompted local merchants to produce various versions, leading to a rich variety of Liu Bao teas with local characteristics.

A Staple in Malaysian Households

In addition to being essential for the miners, many Chinese immigrants who settled in the region also adopted the habit of drinking Liu Bao tea. This created significant demand for the tea in Malaysia’s tin-mining regions, where it became as common as rice, oil and salt. Liu Bao tea could be found not only in tea shops but also in general stores and even hardware shops that sold mining tools.

Over time, Liu Bao tea transcended its association with miners and became a household staple in Malaysia. Many families continue the tradition of serving and drinking Liu Bao tea, with the tea evoking nostalgic memories for those who grew up with its distinctive flavor. A customer once fondly remarked, “This tastes just like my grandmother’s house!”

Liu Bao Tea’s Cultural Significance in Southeast Asia

Liu Bao tea’s role in Southeast Asia goes beyond commerce. For the Chinese diaspora, the tea became a cultural touchstone. Its rich, earthy flavors and long fermentation process made it a symbol of endurance, echoing the experiences of Chinese migrants who worked in difficult conditions but never forgot their roots.

Health Benefits: A "Life-Saving" Tea

Liu Bao tea earned its reputation as a “life-saving tea” due to its health benefits. Its properties help dispel dampness, relieve heat, and aid digestion. For miners working in Malaysia’s hot and humid climate, the tea offered refreshing relief. Its fermentation process, similar to Pu-erh tea, also contributes to its probiotic properties, making it beneficial for gut health.

Drinking Liu Bao tea after a meal helps with digestion, while consuming it on an empty stomach can cleanse the gastrointestinal tract. These benefits, coupled with the tea's ability to reduce internal heat, made it a cherished beverage in Malaysia..

A Modern Revival: Liu Bao Tea’s Enduring Popularity

Liu Bao tea once regarded as "a rough tea for laborers", used to enjoyed significant popularity in the tin mining regions, before fading into obscurity for a while along with the decline of the tin mining industry, before its recent resurgence.

Today, Liu Bao tea is experiencing a revival as tea enthusiasts in Malaysia, China and beyond rediscover its rich history and complex flavors. In Malaysia, Liu Bao tea is commonly sold in specialty tea shops, and high-quality vintage Liu Bao teas are now sought after by collectors. As Liu Bao tea continues to gain global recognition, its timeless connection to the Chinese communities of Malaysia and Southeast Asia remains unbroken.

An Easy Brew

Liu Bao tea is a post-fermented tea and can be very easily brewed and adapted. The only condition is that it needs to be brewed with boiling hot water. It can be brewed kung-fu styled with a Yixing clay teapot being the preferred vessel due to its heat retention properties.

Flavours of Liu Bao Tea

Liu Bao tea is often described by enthusiasts as "red, rich, aged, and mellow" (红、浓、醇、陈) with its complexity revealing itself more with each sip. Although it might not be a "love at first taste" kinda tea for most people, it is definitely a tea that withstands the test of time, and love will come in time.

Main Flavour Profiles of Liu Bao Tea:

• Betel Nut Aroma (槟榔香): A classic aroma unique to Liubao tea  <Aged Bing Lang Xiang 032>
• Medicinal Aroma (药香): A herbal aroma, similar to licorice or traditional Chinese herbal medicine, but with a clean and sweet taste. It's a very natural, very Liu Bao flavour  <Year 2001 Aged Yao Yun>
• Honey Aroma (蜜香): A sweet and fragrant honey-like aroma
• Jujube Aroma (枣香): A fruity scent, resembling red dates <Year 2012 Zao Xiang 122>
• Fungal Aroma (菌香): Scent of golden flower fungus  <Year 2018 Jin Hua>
• Wood Aroma (木香): A very clean scent of old wood
• Ginseng Aroma (参香): A scent similar to American ginseng, with a slightly sweet aftertaste
• Pine Smoke Aroma (松烟香): not incurred from smoking of pine, but the original flavour developed from certain type of tea plant that will form during aging  <Year 2013 Chen Xiang>

In cases of improper production or aging, some odd or unpleasant flavors may also develop.

Conclusion: Liu Bao Tea —A Cultural and Historical Legacy

From the ancient Tea Ship Route to the bustling streets of Ipoh and beyond, Liu Bao tea has traveled far and wide, leaving an indelible mark on the cultural fabric of Malaysia. Its story is not just about tea; it's about heritage, migration, and the resilience of communities in the face of change.

Today, Liu Bao tea remains a beloved drink, a taste of home, and a symbol of the deep-rooted connections between China and Nanyang. Whether enjoyed for its health benefits, its deep cultural roots, or its rich, earthy flavours, Liu Bao tea remains a beloved part of the Southeast Asian tea culture.

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References

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Ho, T. M. (2014) Ipoh: When Tin Was King. Ipoh: Perak Academy.
Su, A., Yang, M., & Long, T. (2017, November 6). 悠悠古道连南洋 源源输出看港澳. 西江都市报.
"霹靂.食物" Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, 16 Sep. 2023. Web. Accessed 5 Oct. 2024. https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%9C%B9%E9%9D%82